All in all great product. I’m a 30yr diesel tech and don’t stray far from OEM normally, but for the price and reviews I wrote before, I decided to give this pan a chance. Other reviewers are correct, TAKE YOUR TIME, TORQUE the bolts, and clean all surfaces. Then you will be just fine. My Snapon torque wrench only goes down to 6.8Nm, (spec in directions is 4Nm +90 deg) for bolt torque. I did the 6.8 and was not able to quite get 90deg with my little T40 angle wrench, but they’re all the same torque near what they want, most important is the torque sequence so it lays flat. You’re holding fluid in a pan, not holding back thousands of pounds of hydraulic fluid, so common sense here. They’re is no rocket science to the seal, this pan is indistinguishable from the factory, same heat fins, same drain plug, same thickness, filter as part of pan, and also has magnets in the pan (as the factory also does) to catch the clutch plate wear materials. My main recommendation is if you have a grand Cherokee (not sure about RAM, etc) you will absolutely need a very poor access T40 angle wrench to get the 4 bolts closest to the torque converter side of the trans. A 1/4” or 3/8” with any wobbly will not work, period. I tried them all, I have them all. I put a pic of the T40 you want, I’m sure you can find it on Amazon for $10 or less. You can use valvoline ULV fluid, but there’s not much price difference for what people are selling the correct mopar 8/9 spd trans oil for. I picked up 7qts for $99. I have had guys (and myself) try max life and non ULV fluid and completely ruined the transmission in only 11 miles (shifting gets jacked up and smashed wrong gears, plus slipping) and will then cost $6k (for just 11 miles of driving) for a rebuild. So yeah, just run the right fluid for $99 instead of 6 grand for a trans rebuild. I bought 7 qts mopar fluid for my grand Cherokee; but found out the drain/refill (not flushing lines, cooler, TC) you only need 3 qts. Since I have 4 quarts left, I’ll drive it for an oil change 3-5k and I’ll drain and refill one more time with remaining fluid. This will be sufficient for the next 70k and I’ll service pan gasket again at that time. Also there is a small quart hand pump they sell for like $9 and it works perfect to pump the quarts into the fill hole. There is no way (even with valvoline quart bags) you will get it in there, so just buy that slick little hand pump and your job will go great, and will functions perfect and no leaks. You’ll still save yourself like $600 by doing it yourself. Double check the transmission cooler lines running along side the pan also as they’re prone to rub and make a hole in the line, may need to tweak them slightly so they don’t rub (it’s this way on the factory pan also). Take your time, do it RIGHT and you’ll be fine with this pan. Pleasantly surprised how good (identical) it is to factory pan/gasket.