Spartan Locker SL D30JL-27 Lunchbox Locker for Dana 30 JL M186 Differential

Overall it's a cheap locker, it works when in 4wd and you can't tell that it's there.In my short time running this locker I like it and this review will change based on my experiences with it. My reason for buying this is my U Joints in the Dana 30 High Pinion on my 1998 Jeep Cherokee decided to sheer off some teeth from binding and this was roughly the same price as a new set of spider gears so I gave this a shot instead of getting a front selectable locker. After I installed this I noticed my jeep now tracks a lot straighter and doesn't have as much wander on the highway. When driving at low speeds, lock to lock, there is no audible ratcheting noise or popping, if you are familiar with Cherokees or any vehicle that has U-Joints in the front with a 50-50 power split as in the NP231 in a Cherokee when in 4wd and turning on pavement the vehicle wants to hop due to the U-Joints binding, this is natural of 4WD; however, when this locker is in 2wd there is no hoping or rubbing but in 4wd there is noticeable rubbing but no hopping due to both tires spinning at the same rate while turning on the pavement. When climbing over obstacles in either 4H or 4L you can tell the front axle locks up due to the reduced throttle needed when climbing rocks or barriers, in off-camber situations when one tire is either at full droop or on lose material and the other tire has full traction both tires spinning at the same rate as a locker should and unlocks as soon as I engage 2WD.Overall it works off-road and I can't tell it's there in my daily driving. I'd recommend this.Installation - went easy cant have any complaints, in my Cherokee I had to pull the diff cover off, 4 bolts to get the carrier out, took the ring gear off by removing the retaining bolts and smacking the ring gear off with a hammer, you use a small punch to remove the retainer pin of your main cross pin to removed your spider gears, make sure all 4 of your thrust washers are removed, you put the spring into the locky key way thing and push it into the locker and insert a little metal pin that they include, you do that 4 times then you put your splined locker gears teethy things into the carrier then insert the two locker bits that have the metal pins, you pull one metal pin out and allow the locker to engage, once engaged you pull the other three out, then roll the center of the carrier to allow the new cross pin to slide through and put a new retainer pin in that is also included. After you punch the pin in you're done installing the locker just reinstall your ring gear with a soft hammer and put the bolts in torque em to spec reinstall into the pumpkin, bolt up your 4 carrier bolts that go in the pumpkin to retain the carrier then throw some gasket maker on the diff cover bolt that down and fill it with fluid and your done, I'd recommend you jack both tires up and or put em on jack stands so no tires are on the ground, when you turn one tire they both should turn in the same direction indicating the locker is indeed locked, to verify proper clearance and that you wont blow up your locker have a buddy bear hug one of your tires and spin the other if she make clicky ratchet esk noises you're good she'll unlock when you turn in 2wd and when you are in 4wd sending power to the front diff she'll lock up.To be noted I am running 8in lift, 35's, long arms, 1 - ton steering, and during the installation of this locker, I replaced my U-Joints, hub bearing, brake pads, and the spider gears due to installing of the locker so my experience may be influenced by the new surrounding parts.