I needed more light, especially on the rural country roads where I live with deer and hogs getting hit all the time on the roads. I wanted to be able to see more than a few yards ahead, and these will fit the need. Obviously I can't drive with them on all the time, but if no one is coming the opposite direction at night, I'll have them on.Installation can be tricky for anyone who is not experienced so if this is your first try at something like this, I'd suggest you ask for help from someone who is experienced. I will eventually mount a real bull bar on the Jeep Grand Cherokee and move the lights to that location, mainly because there is not any metal in the center of the bumper that the existing license plate mounted to. The light bar mount is pretty secure and because of the slotted holes, I managed to screw it down a little crooked, but I loosened the screws and was able to level the mount last night, long after I took the jeep photo shown.I did not use the switch that comes with the wiring harness and unplugged the white connector to remove the switch. Reason for that is that right now my bright lights are not much improvement over my low beams and with my LED fog lights and low beams on, I get flashed by oncoming traffic. I've switched to high beams which cuts off my fogs, and no one flashes me. I decided, to not cut a hole in my dash to mount the switch, and figure out how to pull the wires through my firewall, and instead would use the fog lights switch to turn on and off the fog lights and the LED light bar at the same time, since I can't really drive with the fogs on anyway full time. To do this, I used the white wire coming off the relay pin 86 which is the trigger for the relay to allow the passing through of 12 volts from the battery to the lights with the wiring harness. I cut the white wire just before the white plug, leaving the black and red, then taped up the plug with electrical tape since it will be dangling loose, kind of. I had to pull the weather shield loose between the wheel well and the back of the headlight area to be able to work with the fog light wires, on the passenger side of my vehicle. Under the hood, the passenger side is where my fuse box and ground point are with a positive terminal in the fuse box that is easy to screw down the red wire connector, and just a few inches away is the ground point for connecting jumper cables to, which can be screwed off, slide the black wire connector on and screw the ground point back on. These are the black and red wires that came with the ring connectors already on them. There was a screw that was in the frame in front of my fuse box that was doing nothing so I chose to mount the relay there. I verified that the white wire on the back of my fog light harness was showing 12 volts when the fog lights were on, so I stripped about 5/8 inch of the wire without removing and cutting it, so that I could fold it and squeeze it into an insulated spade connector of this type: https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Connectors-WLEAD-Electrical-Assortment/dp/B0CHB5H7XX/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.f1ae5671-a572-4614-89aa-2c9d534241e0%3Aamzn1.sym.f1ae5671-a572-4614-89aa-2c9d534241e0&crid=2L290ZPYH1KU0&cv_ct_cx=insulated%2Bspade%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&keywords=insulated%2Bspade%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&pd_rd_i=B0CHB5H7XX&pd_rd_r=0ab0d9e0-6815-400b-925f-5d9ff52fd9c5&pd_rd_w=hEMRN&pd_rd_wg=LuEkb&pf_rd_p=f1ae5671-a572-4614-89aa-2c9d534241e0&pf_rd_r=VFVE3B38J2WCZS2KF8GA&qid=1700593099&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=insulated%2Bspade%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors%2Caps%2C87&sr=1-2-ac07dfd7-5f37-4797-bcf7-0f4905c82761-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1I crimped on the connector and added the mating connector to the white wire I cut earlier on the wiring harness and connected the two together. I zip tied that together so the wires aren't really swinging around under there. Now, when the fog lights are turned on, that 12 volts will send a trigger to the relay to turn on the LED light bar. Next I crimped on the two spade connectors that came with the kit onto the black and red wires coming off the light bar and connected them to the end of the wiring harness I fished through behind the grill an zip tied in a few places to keep it secure. Last, I just tied the remaining wire bundle together with a zip tie and then tied up the wiring coming from the light bar under the grill and was finished.You can see in the jeep photo how the bar mounts, (before I leveled it), the fuse box photo of how I wired to power, and the low, high, and light bar photos. I will probably raise the light bar angle a bit to get a little more distance and less flooding of the road right in front of me, but I am really happy with the outcome especially considering the cost of this setup. If you have regular, non-HID headlights and want to power your light bar with your high beams you could do what I did except you would find the wires behind your high beam lights and verify which has 12 volts when the high beams are on and use that wire for your trigger to the white wire in the light bar harness. Or, you could just pull the wires through your fire wall and mount the switch like a normal human would and use the switch provided to turn them on and off. Have fun and enjoy all the light!