I selected the Reliance Controls 31410CRK because of its positive reviews, overall value, and ease of installation. The kit includes hardware to wire into the service panel, but some other pieces of hardware are required. (Like wire and mounting hardware) The kit included an Installation DVD that I never watched. The written instructions and the tutorial on Reliance Controls' website were more than sufficient. The total time working inside the panel was about 30 minutes. The total project time, including mounting hardware and pulling wire was under 3 hours.A suggestion I have for anyone looking at any transfer switch is planning. I mapped all of the outlets, light fixtures, appliances, etc. to each circuit. Then I used meters and product labels to determine wattage requirements of various products. Armed with that data, I was able to plan the circuit layout to balance the load on the generator and pair amperages between breakers and switches. It also helped when deciding which circuits were absolutely necessary, nice to have, and not needed.Another suggestion is to replace standard light bulbs with compact florescent bulbs. My house has 28 light bulbs. At 60W each, the total is 1,680 watts, but the 13 watt CFL total is only 364 watts. Granted, all the lights in the house aren't on at the same time, but it will reduce the load on the generator and your electric bill in the long run.The power inlet box is a little cramped when using knockouts in the back. I still opted for using the rear knockout for a flush appearance outside. The 20 amp cord end would have been handy, but I have a 30 amp generator and won't be using it.Pictures on the web always seem to show the transfer switch to the left of the panel. The cable can be rotated and the switch mounted to the right of the panel, as I did. The wires were long enough to reach from the bottom of the panel to the top, so a lot of wire needed to be trimmed off. I trimmed as I worked, so the cables are all just the right length now. Since this is a permanent installation, I would have liked to see solid core wire rather than stranded. (Only for clean panel installation and ease of insertion in breakers.) The MC connectors between the service panel and the transfer switch do have anti-short bushings. Depending on your state and inspector, they may or may not be required.The kit includes two handle ties if any circuits require 240v. There are two screws on each tie that make them easily removable. Since I didn't have any circuits requiring 240v, I removed both ties to use the full 10 circuits.Each of the wires from the transfer switch is marked with letters for the circuit. The H and the I look very similar, so pay attention to cable orientation when you look at the letters. I paired all the wires and taped them together before starting to avoid hunting in the dark. There are just enough wire nuts to perform the installation in the panel and in the switch, so don't drop any into the sump area.When power is out, cut-over is simple. Start the generator, plug the generator into the power inlet, and throw the circuit switches. I like to throw the switches one at a time. The watt meter will spike when startup current is drawn. When the meter goes back down, I'll throw the next switch.Since Reliance uses break-before-make switches, you can safely perform generator testing while the house is still on utility power. There is no risk of utility power passing to the generator or generator power feeding into utility power, if wired properly. Individual circuits can be flipped to make sure things are working before a power outage occurs.Overall, I think the transfer switch is well constructed and the instructions are thought out and complete. My previous electrical experience was limited to replacing outlets and installing ceiling fans, which helped, but the installation of this was very straightforward. I will definitely be installing one of these transfer switches in any house I own in the future.